Copyright © 2021 Euromaidanpress.com

The work of Euromaidan Press is supported by the International Renaissance Foundation

When referencing our materials, please include an active hyperlink to the Euromaidan Press material and a maximum 500-character extract of the story. To reprint anything longer, written permission must be acquired from [email protected].

Privacy and Cookie Policies.

Ukrainian ethnic jewelry and ornaments

Article by: Maryna Korneva
Source: Infokava.com
Translated by: Christine Chraibi

Ukrainian ornaments have always had two functions – ensure protection (oberih) and information. Amulets and ritual jewelry – rings, bracelets and crosses – were worn close to the skin. Ornaments worn over clothing testified to the owner’s wealth – six strands of coral beads could cost as much as a pair of oxen.

We look more closely at the design of these ornaments to understand why and when they were worn by our grandmothers and ancestors.

Gerdans
Gerdans

Gerdan – two long strips of beaded patterns joined by a medallion which lies on the wearer’s solar plexus (an important power chakra). They were worn by both men and women. In Bukovyna, a small mirror dangled from the ends of gerdan ornaments.

Sylyanky
Sylyanky

Sylyanky or pletinky – parallel lines of beads tied behind the neck. The name comes from the manufacturing process (sylyannya – way of stringing beads). Women wore narrow sylyanky (two to three centimetres) every day as a talisman (the power of each sylyanky was determined by the intricacy of its design). Hutsuly (Carpathian mountain people) sewed these beaded talismans onto red canvas ribbons. The traditional beaded designs were shaped like geometric diamonds with simple or complicated contours, triangles branching out at the corners, zigzags and curved lines – symbols of infinity.

1447855808_a13
Kryza

Kryzy – wide (20 cm) round beaded collars that covered a woman’s neck, chest and shoulders. Lemkos and Boykos wore them on special festive days. Several multicoloured collars of different length and width were worn from the neck down to the waist. 200 hours were needed to make such a collar.

1447855927_hbmp1y3o_gy
Zharda

Zhardy – metal necklaces consisting of two or three strands strung on a red or metal base of crosses. Two discs connected the two ends behind the neck – cheprahamy, which are larger than the crosses on the necklace. The cheprahamy are covered with solar symbols – a wheel with four, six or eight spokes (the modern version is a cross), a rosetta or concentric circles.

1447855657_5
Shelest

Shelest – metal necklace with small round bells, which were made and worn by Hutsuls. It is the most ancient Slavic ornament.

1447855621_6
Patsyorky

Patsyorky – glass beads. Craftsmen used smalt – an opaque alloy of different coloured glass – dark blue, turquoise, white, green, brown, black and red. Round beads were encrusted with gold and decorated with bright-coloured inks.

1447855643_7
Dukach

Dukach (lichman) – pectoral shaped like a medal-like coin with a metal bow decorated with stones. It was a central piece of breast ornaments. It was pinned in the middle of many strands of beads. The face of the most ancient dukach shows the “portrait” of a person who hired Ukrainian Cossack warriors, and the reverse side shows the battle scene in which the person took part. Dukachi with Biblical scenes were very popular.

1447855621_8
Korali

Bunt or coral (korali) ornament – necklace of cylinder- or barrel-shaped coral beads strung on a thread. Women would wear from one to 25 strands of coral beads.

Source: Infokava.com
Translated by: Christine Chraibi
You could close this page. Or you could join our community and help us produce more materials like this.  We keep our reporting open and accessible to everyone because we believe in the power of free information. This is why our small, cost-effective team depends on the support of readers like you to bring deliver timely news, quality analysis, and on-the-ground reports about Russia's war against Ukraine and Ukraine's struggle to build a democratic society. A little bit goes a long way: for as little as the cost of one cup of coffee a month, you can help build bridges between Ukraine and the rest of the world, plus become a co-creator and vote for topics we should cover next. Become a patron or see other ways to support. Become a Patron!
Total
2
Shares